An evening in Trastevere

We jumped onto line 2 of the Metro from the Termini and made our way to Piramide station. A 20 minute walk took us to the famous Trastevere (trans; beyond the Tiber) area. A one time working class neighbourhood located on the other side of the river. It's said that Julius Caesar owned a villa in the area. Like many similar hoods all over the world, Trastevere, for better or for worse, has undergone something of a transformation. It's now wall to wall bars and restaurants interspersed with residential dwellings and, unlike so much of Rome, the occasional religious site!
We made our way to an infamous place of worship, Bar San Calisto, where we indulged in a large Peroni and a caffe freddo. The total cost 4 Euros. Bar San Calisto has a colourful history including a couple of recent closures by the authorities. Bar San Calisto has been owned by Marcello Forti for over 50 years. It's probably fair to say that not much has changed inside Bar San Calisto in that time.
Last night, the place was humming with locals and tourists. You pay your money at the cashier and proceed to the bar where you collect your purchase, then head outside and enjoy the atmosphere of Piazza San Calisto. Somehow this place has retained its authenticity. It was heaving with tourists, like us, but there's still a sense that you're experiencing the real Rome.